Chainsheel Trek in April

Chainsheel Trek in April

"Lets go trekking" said she, Booked for Chainsheel said I. 

About Chainsheel: 

Chainsheel is a collective range of mountains surrounding a ridge along the Himachal & Uttarakhand border. This region is pure & unexplored, and extremely difficult to reach for it receives heavy snow fall during the cold months from Dec to March; however, it is adorned with green carpet of grass and colourful flowers during summers. 

Snow on the tent! 

The preparation : 

Anku and I packed warm clothes, dryfruits and basic toiletries for the days to come. For high altitude trek it is advisable to keep sufficient warm clothes ( quick dry) and essential supplies in limited quantity. 
For physical conditioning it is recommended to start running a few Km at least 5 days a week for 1-2 months before the trek. Running improves your hearts strength and lungs capacity to absorb more oxygen. Both of these are essential for your survival in the difficult terrain. Not claiming that our preparation was perfect; This coveted knowledge is gathered after completion of the trek. 

Logistics: 

Reaching Balawate ( Base camp for Chainsheel) 

Mum-> Dehradoon (DDN) ( Fly)
DDN -> Tuini ( Bus at 6 AM, 7 AM & 830 AM from DDN railway station)
Tuini -> Balawate ( Bolero pickup, show hand and hop on) 

Reporting at Balawate ( 6500 ft)

We arrived in DDN by early noon and head out to our Mausis home for a relaxing day. 

Next day we take the 7 AM bus from DDN railway station and travelled to Tuini. The twisting route takes us along the Shivalik ranges, a welcome change for our strained eyes, the bus dropped us by 2 PM at Tiuni.

Our Bus navigates through the twisty road, 
The road was battered by landslides in places and was consistently being built along the way

The scenic route takes us along Tons River 

From Tiuni to Balawate is further journey of ~30 km through Bolero pickup. Waiving hand works in this region and I follow suit. Anku gets the cabin seat amongst other ladies and I am offered the standing configuration in the open cargo area. The view from DDN to Tuini itself was beautiful and onward further up is even better. As chilling cold air bites the skin our Bolero clambers up the mountain, slow and steady. 

The beautiful view en-route to Balawate base Camp

Reaching Balawate we are greeted by YHAI volunteers and we move into the home stays arranged for the next 2 days of stay. Day 1 being the reporting day and next for acclimatization.
Balawate is a small village with 45-50 families in all and most of them employed into apple farming. The apple season starts October onward, in April its just loaded with flowers. The fruit grows in terrible cold. 

Elevation of Balawate @ 1903m ~ 6300 ft 

Local furball @ Balawate

The first day is for us to explore, walk around absorbing the natural beauty of this region. It feels like detox with the cold fresh air and warmth of the locals. 

Mahasu Devta Temple @ Halol, the temple is believed to be built by Duryodhana

Your wishes are accepted if you bring a goat to the temple .. :) 

The animals in these region grow a natural protective fur coat. For its proximity to the rich Deodar forest, Balawate has a generous supply of Deodar trees (broken, fallen off naturally). And the houses are build and decorated accordingly, using wood from these tree. 

People of Balawat are helpful and friendly, we are greeted by almost everyone in the village and their smiles speaks volumes of the hospitality of this region. Kids go to school in the nearby village and are curious and smart. 

Bundle of Joy @ Balawate

Rock flower @ Balawate

After the individual excursion, we assemble together for introductions and interaction with the fellow trekkers. We are a batch of 27 trekkers, representing the length and breadth of our nation and from different walks of life. 

For the next few days we need to work and play together, to make it happen. 

"Are you excited?" when asked by the organizer, "Yes!" we all scream, loud and clear, thrice.   

Thought of the Day 1: Good food, Great people

Acclimatization

Next day we start off for a quick walk across the hills. The idea is to acclimatize to the thinner air while climbing uphill and with backpack on. I have almost 10 Kg on my back while Anku has around 7 Kg including water, it is not heavy, but also not light either.

We walk across the Apple orchards of Balawat filling our lungs with unpolluted thin air

En-route acclimatization walk @ Balawate

Friendly Bug

Thinner air ( @70%)  means lungs have to work harder to push oxygen to the tissues

In this month (April) the flowers are blooming on the apple plantation and service of Bees and Butterflies is rendered for pollination across plants.This method requires creating conducive environment for Bees to grow and pollinate the plants. A sack with water and bud from flowering plant  is hung on every trees for easier or assisted pollination through the bees. 

We meet many friendly bees and butterflies. Breathing cold and fresh air and watching  countless pretty butterflies waft carelessly by your side is a sight difficult to put down in words. A feeling of bliss overtakes you and you smile internally. 

Apple orchard during our ascent

The area teems with Buzzing Bees, the Bees are also very curious and venture on everything to find out whats happening. Few of the curious Bees started exploring my palms too. Anku's pink jacket top turned into a preferred spot for Bee hangout.

Friendly Bee, these little creature have huge responsibility of pollinating and giving apples to us

The enthusiastic local kids flock around for our help and entertainment. We are bombarded with bad shayari and jokes. :) 

Local kids bring some Burans flowers for us,Burans, which is the star flower of uttarakhand is edible and has a sour taste, probably indicating heavy vitamin C content. Locals make a dish of snow and Burans juice during the season.

Kid offering us Burans flower

After almost 3 hours of trek uphill we gain 1000 feet of vertical height and we head back. After the days excursion a common realization dawns on all "it's going to be a difficult trek" . 

Post acclimatization walk we drop our bags at the home-stay and head out for some more individual excursions, armed with flask full of hot tea. We speak with some locals to understand more about the onward route. The courtyard of the Temple doubles up as meeting point as well. The temple is completely made up of huge Deodaar blocks and is adorned with exquisite wood carvings. 

Temple under construction @ Balawat. Made from solid Deodar wood adorned with exquisite carvings 

While we chatter by the temple our fellow Trekkers assemble all kids of the village and engage them into interesting games. The sight of running and giggling kids attracts the whole village and all trekkers.
We call it a day after dinner and some activities, and wait for the fun to begin.

Thought of the Day 2: Bring it on!

Balawate to Kautiya Thach (9500 ft)

The morning chill brings news that it might snow on the upper route and we brace our self. 

Adhering to the wise advice we decrease the luggage to reduce the carrying weight by at least 3 Kg. Having deposited the extra luggage we feel ready to start the actual trek. 

For future trekkers it is advisable to keep the weight as low as possible, it is possible that your fellow trekker might need help en-route and you might be of use at such time, your service might be needed for lifting bags or the fellow trekker.

After a healthy breakfast we head out, the whole village turns up to flag us off and we start humming tunes of Kishore kumar, few with correct lyrics and few with assumed words. 

Enthusiastic Trekkers on the way

Mahabali Temple @ Monda

Along the way we cross the last village Monda, we halt for some photo shoot sessions and water break and start again to the sky. 


After Monda we enter into the dense Forest, keep close and silent to enjoy the songs and sight of nature. Countless birds chirp in different languages. The blowing wind spreads smell of pine though the jungle, also adding eerie character to it. Won't be good idea to cross this area in dark. 

Huge  Deodaar trees criss-cross our path. These trees grow straight up 30-50 feet and are amazingly strong and light, still, few of them uproot during rains. 

It is said that the forest is infested with snow leopards and Himalayan bear. We were trained in how to face a bear, even though the chance of encountering a wild animal when in a gang of 30 trekkers is quite slim. However, the chance of  such encounter is high in the night when you venture out for the natures call, Buddy protocol is essential during such situations. And Leopards are  known to be quite a curious animal. 

Bridge under construction over Pover river, These are hard Deodar planks

We halt midway around an open patch for lunch and rest and then we head off again. The jungle comes alive with all kinds of Birds chirping and talking to each other. The wind makes the mighty tress spread smell of the forest and swing in harmony. A mesmerizing sight.

Friendly Butterfly along the route

After a walk of around 6 hours we reach the first campsite- KutiyaThach.

@ Kautiya Thach

A beautiful location midst of the forest.. we also get glimpse of snow patches surrounding the campsite.

The campsite is fed water through underground ( under-mountain) water source through a meticulous arrangement. Best spring water we were ever treated to till date, the mountainous water is laced with several minerals which our urban bodies are not usually used to. For some people it is too overwhelming for their bodies to receive purest for of water. 

~ 40 feet long pipe bringing mountain water to our camp site @ Kautiya Thach

Purest of spring water made available to us @ Kautiya Thach

We enter our camps and settle waiting for the welcome drink. While we are warming our feet, a sudden crash thunders through the air. A huge Deodaar tree had uprooted, lucky that our campsite is in middle of the open patch , quite away from the impact area of falling trees.

We dine by 6:30 PM since the natural lights will be gone with Sunset. The campsite is a stargazers paradise, it appears we are closer to the sky, one can see all stars and constellation of the grand sky. We tried identifying the familiar ones Orion, Ursa but there were so many more. 

While we sleep in our respective tents, Anku falls sick in the middle of the night and I am called upon. As I struggle to get out of my sleeping bag, I am informed about symptoms, which are similar to acute mountain sickness (AMS). My heart is clouded for the fear of worst, if she did get AMS then we are left with no choice but to descend back leaving the others.

We check her oxygen level in the midnight and are ready to use the oxygen cylinder if needed. Surprisingly her oxygen levels are better than average and Camp leader terms these symptoms to be of upset stomach and nothing more, looks like her stomach is overwhelmed with the supply of pure water.

As I keep my ears open for any sound from the other tent, I could not sleep through the night and walk out after regular intervals to check on her. Around 4 AM I manage to get a sleep of 2 hours and a thought of abrupt end to the trek lingers in my head.

Thought of the day:  Should we continue this!

Kautiya Thach to Bhutah Thach (10700 ft)

Morning brings warm sun-rays and Anku starts to feel better. We wake up with a new resolve to complete the trek. Some suryanamaskara ( Sun Salutation) to warm up for the day and off we are for the another climb.

The next climb takes us to further higher camps. We walk through dense forest, along trails left by animals and humans and get first glimpse of the snow capped mountains on the other side. Those snow capped mountains would be our adobe for the next few days.

Huge Deodar trees intersect our path

These flowers will cover the whole valley in few month till August

 We arrive at the first Bugyal (meadow) and halt for countless snaps and lunch break. At an elevation of 10000 ft, under a full bright warm sun and chilly air this Bhugyal happens to be a perfect setting for some yoga. And the View of blue sky dotted with snow capped mountains at a distance would envy your wallpaper. 

Bugyal @ 3051 m ~ 10000 ft

High altitude yoga Shirshasana @ 10K feet

After much fun and frolic we ascend further up and are greeted with snow patches along the route. Few of us fall, some slip and some lose the strength of knee. Using a stick helps with better grip and reduces strain on the knee.

By around 4 PM we reach the next camp. The campsite is amazingly perched  on top of cliff. It is called Bhutah thach. Two rivulets on either sides of the campsite serve  as 24x7  running water connection. Interestingly these two rivulets are fed by melting snow from further higher mountains.We are greeted with Tea, followed by steamy soup and interesting snacks. 

The campsite is fed water from melting springs on both sides

Interestingly, this campsite is home to a tiny digger, some tiny animal around rabbits size. This guy had dug up the whole area with tiny tunnels running under soil and snow, probably feeds on insects. Unfortunately none of us could name the animal, I suspect it is this guy Himalayan_pika, more information is most welcome.

Bhuta Thach Campsite @ 10700 ft

super cold by the evening @ Bhutha Thach

We all slip inside the sleeping bags and blankets to shield from biting cold. Some other members of the group start to show early symptoms of high altitude sickness and problematic knee. As a precaution we check oxygen level for both the ladies Anku & Mugdha, turns out both have better than average oxygen level at 98 & 99. As I was around I also get my oxygen level checked, and the meters shows 89 for me, looks like I am more oxygen starved!

By the midnight the outside temperature drops to subzero levels and oxygen cylinder is put to use for one fellow trekker. It turns out that the trek must end for few trekkers due to health issues.

In the night we heare wild Musk Deer near the campsite. White-bellied_musk_deer

Thought of the day: Should have carried lesser weight

Bhuta Thach to Samta Thach ( 11600 ft)

We start off the day with National anthem at Bhuta Thach. As members are advised to return, we are reduced from 27 to 24.

The snowfall from last night removed the traces of trek route, but our expert guides take us all with utmost precautions. Immediately we are troubled with deep snow passes. At some places we encounter snow as deep as 5 feet. 

Melting slippery snow makes it a difficult climb at such an angle

Flower bouquet along the path

Panorama @ Lunch point ~ 11300 ft

On the way to higher camp we could see the Swargarohini peaks ( स्वर्गारोहिणी पर्वतमाला ) . These peaks find mention in Mahabharata, according to the legend, the Pandavas were supposed to enter Heaven through these peaks. And it was on this journey that all but Yudhishthir perished on the way. I find the name very beautiful Swarg + Arohini. 

The Swargarohini peaks 1, 2, 3 & 4 ( स्वर्गारोहिणी पर्वतमाला )

We encounter beautiful passes, snowfall, steep climb, slipping trekkers while sun plays hide and seek with us.

A sunny moment 

We arrive at the next campsite Samta Thach after a climb of roughly 1500 feet.

The last ascent however is very steep and it takes us forever to reach cross the peak. Anku being herself, walks slow but steady, just like the tortoise from that story. And it starts to snow, ruthless snowfall coupled with terribly cold wind. 

By 4 PM we manage to reach the campsite, totally exhausted. Flask full of Tea & Soup to keep the insides warm. Dinner is served by 6 PM and we call it a day. No energy left for any exploration. 

It is hard to sleep as the biting cold keeps most of us shivering under layers of clothing, blankets and sleeping bag.

Thought of the day: Keep your feet dry and chest warm. 

Samta Thach to Kashmoulti Thach (12900 ft)

The chilly morning shows spotty sky, indicating further bad weather ahead. The water for drinking and cleaning is all frozen. Temperature inside the tent hovered around 3°C and was subzero outside.

Frozen ice carpet right out of the camp @ Kashmoulti Thach

By 7:30 AM the Sun God blesses us with its warmth, and I get ready for some high altitude yoga, again.

We start around 9:30 AM for the next campsite, which is the final high altitude camp. We encounter some more snow and very steep climb on the way. Our speed is greatly reduced. 

Snow continues to fall on and off throughout the route, but one specific patch is worth mentioning. While we were crossing a cliff walking over a narrow passage (steep ridges on both sides) we encounter snow flakes flying upwards. At this height  we were above cloud snowing in the ridges, and strong wind flow  wafted the snow flakes upwards. 

The next campsite  Kashmoulti Thach greets us with milder weather.We arrive at the camp even before the supplies. So we wait to help pitching the tent, offloading stuff from the mules.

Arrival of the Mules with Tent, food supplies, and sleeping bags

Post dinner we indulge into some horror story session. Call it a day around 8:30 PM and as it started to snow again. It is discovered that the ladies  had left their tent partially open and hence ice had entered without permission. They are provided extra blankets and additional sleeping bags.I also manage to get two sleeping bags. Hopefully my teeth won't clatter in my head tonight. 

It snows throughout the night, the support staff keeps cleaning and scraping so that our tents don't collapse under weight of the snow. All the while I keep snoring away in bliss. 

Thought of the day: self torture and paying for it too!

Kashmoulti Thach to Falchi Thach ( 11000 ft)

Staff and Guides had laboured vigorously to clear the accumulated snow, throughout the night.

Morning brings cheerful sun-rays. While the world around us is covered in a feet deep fresh snow but we are treated to amazing sights across the valley. In the sky we spot clouds accumulated in shape of a leopard. 

Campsite after snowfall

Morning tea brings energy and warmth to all, life turns a little easier at 13000 ft.

Sunrays .. :)

From Kashmoulti Thach we could get a glimpse of the Mighty Kailash Parvat at a distance. Mount Kailash, abode of the hermit Shiva!, is still an enigma and is unclimbable.  

The Mighty Kailash visible from Kashmoulti Thach

WE start off very soon to avoid the melting snow, or it will be very slippery. Today we shall cross the highest point (14000 ft) on the trek route.

It is essential to wear sunglasses when crossing snow covered mountains otherwise it would cause snow blindness, caused by direct exposure to the UV rays bounced off from the white snow. 
We arrive at the top and pay respect to the nation by singing national anthem. 

Panaroma view from the Summit @ 14000 ft

Onward journey takes us through deeper snow.

We decend for some distance and are slowed down by rain and hailstorm. Lucky that the hails are not big.

howdy!

We navigate our way to the next camp, the final one.


It keeps snowing and raining till sunset and then comes to a standstill. We arrive at Falchi Thach all drenched in snow, socks freezing wet inside the shoe. The day turns out quite a horror for Anku as she has developed some blisters and swelling. 

After some fun and frolic we call it a day. The next day we will be out for around 11 km of trek and a altitude drop of around 4K feet.

The clear night sky is adorned with millions of stars. On the other side of our campsite below the cliff we can see flickering lights of some village,all good things must come to an end.

Falchi Thach Camp after fresh snow and rain

And we thought it will be warm at Falchi Thach, we stand corrected!

Thought of the day: 2 days to go!

Falchi Thach to Balwat ( Descending) 

The morning at Falchi Thach bring view of distant mountains and warm sunlight. 

Magic of the morning

The whole ares wakes up to various sounds by the Dawn

Morning brings chatter of the birds to our campsite, few trekkers get out in search of the perfect shot. This area is filled with Robin, Green Bee-eater, Spotted Dove, Rock Thrush to name a few known birds. Hope to update pictures of these birds with credits after more snaps are received from fellow trekkers.

Snow from last night had already melted and we are ready for the longest leg of our journey.

a moment to breathe

You will be missed! 

We begun strong and walked through the dense forest. We encounter Himalayan Monal on the way Monal.

The steep downhill descent tests our patience and resolve. The ankel and knee joint make themself aware simultaneously. While we all struggle with troubling legs the snow keeps battering us. As we descend, the snowfall turns into  chilling rain. With no respite in teh cold and rain we navigate our way downwards from a height of 12000 feet to straight down at 7000 feet along the valley, all the while Anku moves terribly slowly for her swollen feet and blisters.

Beware of what you wish for!

By the time we reached bottom of the valley we could hear the soothing sound of water gushing. The river flowing playfully through the vallies invites us to pause for another moment and breath in deeper. The lush green forest, dotted with apple plantations and sounds of the nature tries to hold you back, but we have to push ahead. After crossing few bridges by side of the river we are surprised to find a pakora and tea stall by side of the river.

After another short pause we continue again, with wet feet and itching boots, to Balawate. Although devoid of much ups and downs, walk along the river appeared due to troubling feet and slow speed. Anku had already asked a millionth time " How far still", I try to hold back my sarcastic smile. 

By the time we hit the solid tarmac all are are physically and mentally drained. Our guides assemble us again and force us to enter village in a queue, its hard to protest and we yield for the greater good.

Just like the our first day at start, the whole village had already assembled with garlands and Dhol for our welcome. the gesture was so unexpected and overwhelming that it brought tears to some.

The final reception @ Balawat, Locals with Dhol, garlands welcome us back

The welcome ceremony was aptly complimented with local dancing session where we all pitched in to best of our capability. Anku who walked like a zombie for the last 11 Km suddenly jumps to life and matches every step with the beats, following the garhwali dancing style to everyone's surprise. 

By the time we are done with dinner and are packing for the next day we realized that what an adventure we had just finished and how lucky we all were. I could not help but think of the next treks that I must complete. Addicted, am I.

More than the trek the whole task of organising was such a herculean one and the whole YHAI team and Locals did their best to make it happen. Moreover we were supremely lucky to find guides like Pankaj & Babloo.  

 Thought of the day: All is well that ends well!

Home bound

With smiling faces we say goodbye to the lovely people of Balawate, the amazing team at YHAI, our amazing guides, and fellow trekkers for onward journey home.

While I am drawing a mental sketch of the last 9 days, Anku takes home a few blisters and massively swollen pair of feet as a memoir. The rendezvous with Himalayas is over for now, says she. 

While back in Dehradun On we make way to Ellora's Bakery for some quick bites and fresh baked cakes, followed by our customary walk along the Tibetan market. Surprisingly the Tibetan market has moved to fixed price, it took away a little charm that way. 

Thought of the day: Need some moisturizer and hot water!

Throughout the trek we met some amazing people and made few more friends. In search on the next destination now!