Chainsheel Trek in April
From the pictures on internet it appeared doable for both of us so we made the bookings for the first batch and waited with patience.
The blog is organized on the days and each day concludes with a thought of the day which is left hovering while we slip into our sleeping bags.
About Chainsheel:
Chainsheel is a collective range of mountains surrounding a ridge along the Himachal & Uttarakhand border. This region is pure & unexplored for being extremely difficult to reach, it receives heavy snow fall during the cold months from Dec to March and the same mountainous terrain is adorned with green carpet of grass filled with colourful flowers July onward.
To Chainsheel with YHAI
YHAI has started the Chainsheel Bhugyal trek in April 2018 after much painstaking preparation. And we were fortunate enough to find a place on the very first batch.
The preparation :
Anku and I packed warm clothes, dryfruits and basic toiletries for the days to come. For high altitude trek it is advisable to keep sufficient warm clothes ( quick dry) and essential supplies in limited quantity.For physical conditioning it is recommended to start running a few Km at least 5 days a week for 1-2 months before the trek. Running improves your hearts strength and lungs capacity to absorb more oxygen. Both of these are essential for your survival in the difficult terrain. Not claiming that our preparation was perfect; this coveted wisdom is outcome of this trek.
Himalayas are feared and revered for a reason!
Logistics:
Reaching Balawate ( Base camp for Chainsheel)
Mum-> Dehradoon (DDN) ( Fly)
DDN -> Tuini ( Bus at 6 AM, 7 AM & 830 AM from DDN railway station)
Tuini -> Balawate ( Bolero pickup, show hand and hop on)
Day 1: Reporting at Balawate ( 6500 ft)
We arrived in DDN by early noon and head out to our Mausis home for a relaxing day.Next day we take the 7 AM bus from DDN railway station and travelled to Tuini. The twisting route takes us along the Shivalik ranges and we are awed by the driving skill required to drive a Bus on these roads. The Bus moves at a consistent pace and takes few halts for passengers and a brunch break, it dropped us by 2 PM at Tiuni.
 |
| Our Bus navigates through the twisty road, The road was battered by landslides in places and was consistently being built along the way |
 |
| The scenic route takes us along Tons River |
From Tiuni to Balawate is further journey of ~30 km through Bolero pickup. Waiving hand works in this region and I follow suit. Anku gets the cabin seat and I am offered the standing configuration in the open cargo area. The view from DDN to Tuini itself was beautiful and onward further up is even better. While chilling cold air bites the skin our Bolero clambers up the mountain, slow and steady.
 |
| The beautiful view en-route to Balawate base Camp |
Reaching Balawate we are greeted by YHAI volunteers and we move into the home stays arranged for the next 2 days of stay. Day 1 being the reporting day and next for acclimatization.
Balawate is a small village with 45-50 families in all and most of them employed into apple farming. The apple season starts October onward, in April its just loaded with flowers. The fruit grows in terrible cold.
 |
| Elevation of Balawate @ 1903m ~ 6300 ft |
 |
| Local furball @ Balawate |
 |
| Mahasu Devta Temple @ Halol, the temple is believed to be built by Duryodhana |
 |
| Your wishes are accepted if you bring a goat to the temple .. :) |
The animals in these region grow a natural protective fur coat. For its proximity to the rich Deodar forest, Balawate has a generous supply of Deodar trees (broken, fallen off naturally). And the houses are build and decorated accordingly, using wood from these tree.
People of Balawat are helpful and friendly, we are greeted by almost everyone in the village and their smiles speaks volumes of the hospitality of this region. Kids go to school in the nearby village and are curious and smart.
 |
| Bundle of Joy @ Balawate |
 |
| Temple under construction @ Balawat. Made from solid Deodar wood adorned with exquisite carvings |
 |
| Rock flower @ Balawate |
After the days individual excursion, we assemble together for introductions and interaction with the fellow trekkers. We are a batch of 27 trekkers, representing the length and breadth of our nation and from different walks of life.
For the next few days we need to work and play together, to make it happen.
Are we excited, Yes! we all scream, loud and clear, thrice.
Thought of the Day: Good food, great people
Day 2: Acclimatization
Next day we start off for a quick walk across the hills. The idea is to acclimatize to the thinner air while climbing uphill and with backpack on. I have almost 10 Kg on my back while Anku has around 7 Kg including water, it is not heavy, but also not light either.
We walk across the Apple orchards of Balawat filling our lungs with unpolluted thin air
 |
| En-route acclimatization walk @ Balawate |
 |
| Living on the edge |
 |
| Full blooming apple plant |
 |
| Friendly Bug |
 |
| Accent to 2216 m ~ 7300 ft |
 |
| Thinner air means lungs have to work harder to push oxygen to the tissues |
In this method of farming the villagers create conducive environment for Bees to grow and pollinate the plants. A sack with water and bud from flowering plant hangs on the trees for easier or assisted pollination through the bees.
We meet many friendly bees and butterflies. Breathing cold and fresh air and watching countless pretty butterflies waft carelessly by your side is a sight difficult to put down in words. A feeling of bliss overtakes you and you smile internally.
 |
| Apple orchard during our ascent |
The enthusiastic local kids flock around for our help and entertainment. We are bombarded with bad shayari and jokes. :)
Local kids pluck and bring some Burans flowers for us. Burans, which is the star flower of uttarakhand is edible and has a sour taste, probably indicating heavy vitamin C content. Locals make a dish of snow and Burans juice during the season.
 |
| Kid offering us Burans flower |
 |
| Friendly Bee, these little creature have huge responsibility of pollinating and giving apples to us |
After almost 3 hours of trek uphill we gain 1000 feet of vertical height and we plan to head back. By this time few of us come to realise that it is going to be a difficult trek.
Post acclimatization walk we drop our bags at the home-stay and head out for some more individual excursions, armed with flask full of hot tea.
We speak with some locals to understand more about the onward route. The courtyard of the Temple doubles up as meeting point as well. The temple is completely made up of huge Deodaar blocks and is adorned with exquisite wood carvings. Jai Mahasu Devta!
 |
| Games time @ Balawate |
We call it a day after dinner and some activities, and wait for the fun to begin.
Thought of the Day: Bring it on!
Day 3: Balawate to Kautiya Thach (9500 ft)
The morning chill brings news that it might snow on the upper route and we brace our self.
Adhering to the wise advice we decrease the luggage to reduce the carrying weight by at least 3 Kg. Having deposited the extra luggage we feel ready to start the actual trek.
For future trekkers it is advisable to keep the weight as low as possible, it is possible that your fellow trekker might need help en-route and you might be of use at such time, lifting bags or even lifting the fellow trekker.
After a healthy breakfast we head out with few liters of water, packed lunch and bare minimum luggage on our backs for the trek. The whole village turns up to flag us off and we start humming tunes of Kishore kumar, few with correct lyrics and few with assumed words.
 |
| Enthusiastic Trekkers on the way |
 |
| Mahabali Temple @ Monda |
Along the way we cross the last village Monda, we halt for some photo shoot sessions and water break and start again to the sky.
 |
| Beautiful ladies @ Monda |
After Monda we enter into the dense Forest, keep close and silent to enjoy the songs and sight of nature. Countless birds chirp in different languages. The blowing wind spreads smell of pine though the jungle while also adding eerie character to it. Won't be good idea to cross this area in dark.
I am surprised at the size of Deodaar trees as they criss-cross our path. These trees grow straight up 30-50 feet and are amazingly strong and light. The root footprint of these trees is not very large and for that reason lot of these trees uproot during rains.
This forest is infested with snow leopards and Himalayan bear. We were trained in how to face a bear, the chance of encountering a wild animal with a gang of 30 trekkers is quite slim. However, the chance of encountering a predator is high in the night when you need to venture out for the natures call, Buddy protocol is essential during such situations. The Leopards are curious animals, to say the least.
A bridge in the making
 |
| Bridge under construction over pover river, These are hard Deodar planks |
We halt midway around an open patch for lunch and rest and then we head off again. The jungle comes alive with all kinds of Birds chirping and talking to each other. The wind makes the mighty tress spread smell of the forest and swing in harmony. A mesmerising sight.
 |
| Friendly Butterfly along the route |
After a walk of around 6 hours we reach the first campsite- KutiyaThach.
 |
| @ Kautiya Thach |
A beautiful location midst of the forest.. we also get glimpse of snow patches surrounding the campsite.
The campsite is fed water through underground ( under-mountain) water source through a meticulous arrangement. Best spring water we were ever treated to till date, the mountainous water is laced with several minerals which our urban bodies are not usually used to. For some people it is too overwhelming for their bodies to receive purest for of water.
 |
| ~ 40 feet long pipe bringing mountain water to our camp site @ Kautiya Thach |
 |
| Purest of spring water made available to us @ Kautiya Thach |
We enter our camps and settle waiting for the welcome drink. Suddenly I see a huge Deodaar Tree crashing to the ground, it uproots some soil and breaks in the middle. Lucky that our campsite is in middle of the open patch and away from the impact area of falling trees.
We are done with dinner by 6:30 PM and sleep under the blanket of a full starlit bright sky. It appears we are closer to the sky a stargazers paradise, you can see all stars and constellation of the grand sky. We tried identifying the familiar ones Orion, Ursa but there were so many more, next time I will come better prepared.
While we sleep in our respective tents, Anku falls sick in the middle of the night and I am informed about symptoms similar to acute mountain sickness (AMS). As I struggle to get out of my sleeping bag, my heart is clouded for the fear of worst. If it were the symptom of AMS then we should not go further higher up rather end the trek and descend back.
We check her oxygen level in the midnight and are ready to use the oxygen cylinder if needed. Surprisingly her oxygen levels are better than average and Camp leader terms these symptoms to be of upset stomach and nothing more.
As I keep my ears open for any sound from the other tent, I could not sleep through the night and walk out after regular intervals to check on her. I wait for the night to get over and my mind is clouded with silly thoughts. I manage to get a sleep of 2 hours and with the thought of ending the trek.
Thought of the day: Should we continue this!
Day 4: Kautiya Thach to Bhutah Thach (10700 ft)
Morning brings warm sun-rays and Anku starts to feel better. We wake up with a new resolve to complete the trek without any doubt.Some suryanamaskara ( Sun Salutation) to warm up for the day and off we are for the another climb.
The next climb takes us to further higher camps. We walk through dense forest along trails left by animals and humans and get first glimpse of the snow capped mountains on the other side. Those snow capped mountains would be our adobe for the next few days.
 |
| Huge Deodar trees intersect our path |
 |
| These flowers will cover the whole valley in few month till August |
At an elevation of 10000 ft, under a full bright warm sun and chilly air this Bhugyal happens to be a perfect setting for some yoga. And the View of blue sky dotted with snow capped mountains at a distance would envy your wallpaper.
 |
| Bugyal @ 3051 m ~ 10000 ft |
 |
| Shirshasana @ 10K feet |
After much fun and frolic we ascend further up and are greeted with snow patches along the route. Few of us fall, some slip and some lose the strength of knee. Using a stick helps with better grip and reduces strain on the knee.
We are greeted with Tea, followed by steamy soup and interesting snacks. Interestingly this campsite is home to a tiny digger, some tiny animal around rabbits size. This guy had dug up the whole area with tiny tunnels running under soil and snow, he probably looks for insects. Unfortunately non of us could name the animal but the search is on, on internet to find the little guy. I suspect this guy Himalayan_pika, more information is most welcome.
 |
| Bhuta Thach Campsite @ 10700 ft |
 |
| The campsite is fed water from melting springs on both sides |
 |
| super cold by the evening @ Bhutha Thach |
We all slip inside the sleeping bags and blankets to shield from biting cold. Some members start to show early symptoms of high altitude sickness and problematic knee. The thin air at this altitude coupled with extreme cold, starts to show its effect.
As a precaution we check oxygen level for both the ladies Anku & Mugdha, turns out both have better than average oxygen level at 98 & 99. Since I was around I also offer my finger for checking my oxygen level, and the meters shows 89 for me.
By the midnight the outside temperature drops to subzero levels and oxygen cylinder kept with the camp leader is put to use for one trekker. It turns out that few trekkers find it extremely difficult to continue due to breathlessness and cold and they wish to return.
In the night we heard wild Musk Deer near the campsite. White-bellied_musk_deer
Thought of the day: Should have carried lesser weight
Day 5: Bhuta Thach to Samta Thach ( 11600 ft)
We start off the day with National anthem at Bhuta Thach. Some members decide to return to the base camp as uneasiness mount on, and we are reduced from 27 to 24.
The snowfall from last night removed the traces of trek route, but our expert guides take us all with utmost precautions. Immediately we are troubled with deep snow passes. At some places we encounter snow as deep as 5 feet. The staff had worked tirelessly through last few days to carve out a path out of these snow patches, which is covered in snow again.
 |
| Melting slippery snow makes it a difficult climb at such an angle |
 |
| Flower bouquet along the path |
 |
| Panorama @ Lunch point ~ 11300 ft |
When walking on loose snow it is advised to keep foot into footmarks created by others.
On the way to higher camp we could see the Swargarohini peaks ( स्वर्गारोहिणी पर्वतमाला ) . These peaks find mention in Mahabharata, according to the legend, the Pandavas were supposed to enter Heaven through these peaks. And it was on this journey that all but Yudhishthir perished on the way. I find the name very beautiful Swarg + Arohini.
 |
| The Swargarohini peaks 1, 2, 3 & 4 ( स्वर्गारोहिणी पर्वतमाला ) |
We encounter beautiful passes, snowfall, steep climb, slipping trekkers while sun plays hide and seek with us.
 |
| A sunny moment |
We arrive at the next campsite Samta Thach after a climb of roughly 1500 feet.
The last ascent however is very steep and it takes us forever to reach cross the peak. Anku being herself walks slow and steady, just like the tortoise from that story. And it starts to snow, ruthless snowfall coupled with biting cold wind. Fighting extreme cold weather and snowfall we steadily clamber up.
By 4 PM we manage to reach the campsite but all are totally exhausted with ruthless wind and persistent snowfall. Flask full of Tea & Soup to keep the insides warm. Dinner is served by 6 PM and we call it a day. No energy left for any exploration.
It is hard to sleep as the biting cold keeps most of us shivering under layers of clothing, blankets and sleeping bag.
Thought of the day: Keep your feet dry and chest warm.
Day 6: Samta Thach to Kashmoulti Thach (12900 ft)
The morning comes with lesser hopes, the gloomy sky indicates bad weather ahead. The water for drinking and cleaning is all frozen. Temperature inside the tent hovered around 3°C in the tent and was sever.
 |
| Frozen ice carpet right out of the camp @ Kashmoulti Thach |
By 7:30 AM the Sun God blesses us with its warm rays and we start to feel better and move around. Some click amazing clicks, some run around, and I get ready for some high altitude yoga.
We start around 9:30 for the next campsite, which is the final high altitude camp. We encounter some more snow and very steep climb on the way. Our speed is greatly reduced.
Snow continues to fall on and off throughout the route, but one specific patch is worth mentioning. While we were crossing a cliff walking over a narrow passage ( steep ridges on both sides) we encounter snow flakes flying upwards. At this place our height was above cloud snowing in the ridges with strong wind flow the snow flakes were wafting upwards.
With fresh snow comes lots of fun and slides, and midway snow sliding cheers up all.
The next campsite Kashmoulti Thach greets us with milder weather.We arrive at the camp even before the supplies. So we wait to help pitching the tent, offloading stuff from the mules.
Post dinner we indulge into some singing and horror story session. Call it a day around 8:30 and snowfall had started. By the time we step out the snowfall had already started. The ladies left their tent partially open and hence ice enters their tent. They are provided extra blankets and additional sleeping bags to keep warm through the night.
I also manage to get two sleeping bags and don't need to clench my jaw to stop my teeth from clattering in my head tonight.
It snows throughout the night, the support staff keeps cleaning and scraping so that our tents don't collapse under weight of the snow. All the while I keep snoring away in bliss.
Thought of the day: Why are we torturing our-self!
Day 7: Kashmoulti Thach to Falchi Thach ( 11000 ft)
All of us wait for the morning. Staff and Guides kept working vigorously to clear the accumulated snow. All of this had been possible because of the hard work of the staff and support of the locals.
Morning brings cheerful sun-rays. While the world around us is covered in a feet deep fresh snow but we are treated to amazing sights across the valley. In the sky we spot clouds accumulated in shape of a leopard.
Morning tea brings energy and warmth to all, soon the Sun-rays make life little easier at 13000 ft.
From Kashmoulti Thach we could get a glimpse of the Mighty Kailash Parvat at a distance. Mount Kailash abode of the hermit Shiva!, is still an enigma and is unclimbable.
 |
| The Mighty Kailash visible from Kashmoulti Thach |
Before the snow melts and becomes slippery we start off for the accent to the summit. Today we cross the highest point (14000 ft) on the trek route.
It is essential to wear sunglasses when crossing snow covered mountains otherwise it would cause snow blindness. Snow blindness is caused by direct exposure to the UV rays bounced off from the white snow.
 |
 |
| The summit @ 14000 ft |
We arrive at the top and pay respect to the nation by singing national anthem.
 |
| Panaroma view from the Summit @ 14000 ft |
Onward journey takes us through deeper snow.
We decend for some distance and are slowed down by rain and hailstorm. Lucky that the hails are not big.
 |
| Swiss roll made from fresh snow |
It keeps snowing and raining till sunset and then comes to a standstill. We arrive at Falchi Thach all drenched in snow and socks freezing wet inside the shoe.
After some fun and frolic we call it a day. The next day we will be out for around 11 km of trek and a altitude drop of around 4K feet.
The clear night sky is adorned with millions of stars. On the other side of our campsite below the cliff we can see flickering lights of some village, it gives the sad feeling that last stops usually bring.
 |
| Falchi Thach Camp after fresh snow and rain |
 |
| And we thought it will be warm at Falchi Thach, we stand corrected! |
Thought of the day: 2 days to go!
Day 8: Falchi Thach to Balwat
The morning at Falchi Thach bring view of distant mountains and warm sunlight.
 |
| Magic of the morning |
 |
| The whole ares wakes up to various sounds by the Dawn |
Morning brings chatter of the birds to our campsite, few trekkers get out in search of the perfect shot. This area is filled with Robin, Green Bee-eater, Spotted Dove, Rock Thrush to name a few known birds. Hope to update pictures of these birds with credits once more snaps arrive from fellow trekkers.
Snow from last night had already melted and we are ready for the longest leg of our journey.
 |
| Morning glory @ Falchi Thach |
We begun strong and walked through the dense forest. We encounter Himalayan Monal on the way Monal.
The steep downhill descent tests patience, resolve and ankle strength simultaneously. While we all struggle with troubling legs the rains keep battering us. Snowfall transforms into rain as we continue to descend. We navigate our way downwards from a height of 12000 feet to straight down at 7000 feet along the valley.
Taking multiple breaks and pauses few of us developed muscle cramps, frozen hands and blisters in foot but nonetheless we had to reach the base camp to find shelter so we push a little more.
 |
| Beware of what you wish for! |
By the time we reached bottom of the valley we could hear the soothing sound of water gushing. After crossing few bridges by side of the river we are surprised to find a pakora and tea stall by side of the river.
With wet feet and itching boots we continue again to reach Balawate. Although devoid of much ups and downs, walk along the river appeared due to troubling feet and slow speed. Anku had already asked a millionth time " How far still". Even though the whole route was very beautiful our physical distractions kept us focused inwards and not appreciate the natural beauty to its fullest.
By the time we hit the solid tarmac we are physically and mentally drained. Our guides assemble us again and force us to enter village in a queue, its hard to protest and we yield for the common good.
To much surprise the whole village had already assembled with garlands and Dhol for our welcome. the gesture was so unexpected and overwhelming that it brought tears to some.
 |
| The final reception @ Balawat, Locals with Dhol, garlands welcome us back |
The welcome ceremony was aptly complimented with local dancing session where we all pitched in to best of our capability. Anku who walked like a zombie for the last 11 Km suddenly jumps to life and matches every step with the beats, following the garhwali dancing style to everyones surprise.
All the YHAI team, villagers come to welcome us back, all were enthusiastic to hear out our stories and we were equally enthusiastic to relate to them.
By the time we are done with dinner and are packing for the next day we realized that what an adventure we had just finished and how lucky we all were. I could not help but think of the next treks that I must complete. Addicted, am I.
More than the trek the whole task of organising was such a herculean one and the whole YHAI team and Locals did their best to make it happen. Moreover we were supremely lucky to find guides like Pankaj & Babloo.
Thought of the day: All is well that ends well!
Day 9: Home bound
With smiling faces we say goodbye to the lovely people of Balawate, the amazing team at YHAI, our amazing guides, and our fellow trekkers for our journey home.
We managed to book a vehicle for Dehradoon directly from Balwat and through the same twisting roads along the Shivalik ranges we descend back with countless memories of the elast 9 days. Anku takes home a few blisters and massively swollen pair of feet as a memoir from the whole trip. For her the rendezvous with Himalayas is over for now. :)
On the way we halt at Ellora's (the famous bakery) in DDN for some quick bites and fresh baked cakes, followed by our customary walk along the Tibetan market. Surprisingly the Tibetan market has moved to fixed price, it took away a little charm that way.
By the time we reach Dehradoon airport we are starved for a relaxing sleep at home.
Thought of the day: Need some moisturizer and hot water!
Throughout the trek we met some amazing people and made few more friends. While we continue our journey in search of new pastures we leave you with the poetry by the most talented Mayank bhai our fellow trekker.
बर्फ की चादर ओढा हुवा ये जहाँ, फिर मिले ना मिले
ये नयनरम्य दृश्य स्मृतिपट पर, फिर मिले ना मिले ।
भर लु आंखों में इसकी सुगंध का दरिया
ये भीगी मिट्टी की सोंधी महेक, फिर मिले ना मिले ।
उमड़ लु सीने में फिर यादें वो दोस्तो की,
वो केके भाई की भावविभोर अदाएं,अकाशजी के गाने,विनोदभाई के ठहाके
फिर मिले ना मिले ।
बंद करलु दिलमे वो लम्हे, जो गुजारे है दोस्तों के साथ,
बबलू की वो (भूत की) बाते, पंकज की वो शरारतें फिर मिले ना मिले
Comments
Post a Comment